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Bangladesh
Reading
the world's press you could be forgiven for thinking that Bangladesh
is a disaster zone rather than a travel destination. But hiding
behind these images of cyclones and floods is a strikingly lush
and beautiful land with a rich history and a variety of attractions
unusual for a country this size. For a start, you can visit archaelogical
sites dating back over 2000 years; check out the longest beach and
the largest littoral mangrove forest in the world; and see decaying
'Gone With The Wind' mansions of 19th-century maharajas.
Despite
being the world's most crowded country, rural Bangladesh feels relaxed,
spacious and friendly: travellers from India have been agreeably
surprised to find border officials offering them cups of tea rather
than reams of forms to fill in. Facilities are limited but if you
have an independent streak, it's definitely worth avoiding the crowds
heading to India and Nepal and following the old slogan of Bangladesh's
tourist body: 'Come to Bangladesh before the tourists'.
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Destination
Facts
Full country name: People's Republic of Bangladesh
Area: 143,998 sq km (55,598 sq mi)
Population: 129 million
Capital city: Dhaka (pop: 8.5 million)
People: 98% Bengali, 250,000 Bihari, tribals less than 1
million
Language: Bangla, English
Religion: 88.3% Islam, 10.5% Hindu, 1.2% other
Government: Republic
Prime Minister: Sheikh Hasina Wajed
President: Shahabuddin Ahmed
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Economic
Profile
GDP: US$175.5 billion
GDP per head: US$1380
Annual growth: 4%
Inflation: 7%
Major industries: Jute manufacturing, cotton textiles, food
processing, steel, fertilizer, rice, jute, tea, wheat, sugarcane,
potatoes, beef, milk, poultry
Major trading partners: Western Europe, US, Hong Kong, Japan,
India, China, Singapore
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Environment
Bangladesh
is nestled in the crook of the Bay of Bengal, surrounded by India.
It shares a border in the south-east with Myanmar and fronts onto
the Bay of Bengal. The country is flat, flat, flat, and dominated
by the braided strands of the Ganges-Brahmaputra-Jamuna delta. Where
Bangladesh ends and the sea begins is a murky zone of shifting sediments,
watercourses, flood waters and silt. Over 90% of the country is
composed of alluvial plains less than 10m above sea level, making
it an inviting proposition to flood-prone rivers and tidal waves.
The only relief from these low-lying plains occurs in the north-east
and south-east corners where modest hills rise to an average height
of around 240m (787ft) and 600m (1970ft) respectively.
Roughly
two-thirds of Bangladesh is fertile arable land and a little over
10% remains forested. The country is home to the Royal Bengal tiger,
leopards, Asiatic elephants (mostly migratory herds from Bihar),
and a few remaining black bears. There are also plenty of monkeys,
langurs, gibbons (the only ape on the subcontinent), otters and
mongooses. Reptiles include the sea tortoise, mud turtle, river
tortoise, pythons, crocodiles and a variety of bloody unpleasant
poisonous snakes. There are more than 600 species of birds: the
best known is the mynah but the most spectacular are the kingfishers
and fishing eagles.
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History
Medieval
European geographers located paradise at the mouth of the Ganges
and although this was overhopeful, Bengal was probably the wealthiest
part of the subcontinent up until the 16th century. The area's early
history featured a succession of Indian empires, internal squabbling,
and a tussle between Hinduism and Buddhism for dominance. All of
this was just a prelude to the unstoppable tide of Islam which washed
over northern India at the end of the 12th century. Mohammed Bakhtiar,
from Turkistan, captured Bengal in 1199 with only 20 men thanks
to an unexplained 'bold and clever strategy'.
Under
the Moghul viceroys, art and literature flourished, overland trade
expanded and Bengal was opened to world maritime trade - the latter
marking the death knell of Moghul power as Europeans began to establish
themselves in the region. The Portuguese arrived as early as the
15th century but were ousted in 1633 by local opposition. The East
India Company negotiated terms to establish a fortified trading
post in Calcutta in 1690. The decline of Moghul power led to greater
provincial autonomy, heralding the rise of the independent dynasty
of the nawabs of Bengal. Humble East India Company clerk
Robert Clive ended up effectively ruling Bengal when one of the
impetuous nawabs attacked the thriving British enclave in Calcutta
and stuffed those unlucky enough not to escape in an underground
cellar. Clive retook Calcutta a year later and the British Government
replaced the East India Company following the Indian Mutiny in 1857.
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The
Brits established an organisational and social structure unparalleled
in Bengal, and Calcutta became one of the most important centres
for commerce, education and culture in the subcontinent. However,
many Bangladeshi historians blame the Brits' dictatorial agricultural
policies and promotion of the semi-feudal zamindar system
for draining the region of its wealth and damaging its social fabric.
The British presence was a relief to the minority Hindus but a catastrophe
for the Muslims. The Hindus cooperated with the Brits, entering
British educational institutions and studying the English language,
but the Muslims refused to cooperate, and rioted whenever crops
failed or another local product was rendered unprofitable by government
policy.
At
the close of WWII it was clear that European colonialism had run
its course and Indian independence was inevitable. Independence
was attained in 1947 but the struggle was bitter and divisive, especially
in Bengal where the fight for self-government was complicated by
internal religious conflict. The British, realising any agreement
between the Muslims and Hindus was impossible, decided to partition
the subcontinent. That Bengal and Punjab, the two overwhelmingly
Muslim regions, lay on opposite sides of India was only one stumbling
block. The situation was complicated in Bengal where the major cash
crop, jute, was produced in the Muslim-dominated east, but processed
and shipped from the Hindu-dominated city of Calcutta in the west.
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Despite
grumblings many and various, partition duly occurred and East Bengal
became the runt state of East Pakistan. It was administered unfavourably
from West Pakistan, with which it shared few similarities apart
from the Muslim faith. Inequalities between the two regions soon
stirred up a sense of Bengali nationalism that had not been reckoned
with during the push for Muslim independence. When the Pakistan
government declared that 'Urdu and only Urdu' would be the national
language, the Bangla-speaking Bengalis decided it was time to assert
their cultural identity. The drive to reinstate the Bangla language
metamorphosed into a push for self-government and when the Awami
League, a nationalistic party, won a majority in the 1971 national
elections, the president of Pakistan, faced with this unacceptable
result, postponed opening the National Assembly. Riots and strikes
broke out in East Pakistan, the independent state of Bangladesh
was unilaterally announced, and Pakistan sent troops to quell the
rebellion.
The
ensuing war was one of the shortest and bloodiest of modern times,
with the Pakistan army occupying all major towns, using napalm against
villages, and slaughtering and raping villagers. Bangladeshis refer
to Pakistan's brutal tactics as attempted genocide. Border clashes
between Pakistan and India increased as Indian-trained Bangladeshi
guerrillas crossed the border. When the Pakistani air force made
a pre-emptive attack on Indian forces, open warfare ensued. Indian
troops crossed the border and the Pakistani army found itself being
attacked from the east by the Indian army, the north and east by
guerrillas and from all quarters by the civilian population. In
11 days it was all over and Bangladesh, the world's 139th country,
officially came into existence. Sheikh Mujib, one of the founders
of the Awami League, became the country's first prime minister in
January 1972; he was assassinated in 1975 during a period of crisis.
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The
ruined and decimated new country experienced famine in 1973-74,
followed by martial law, successive military coups and political
assassinations. In 1979, Bangladesh began a short-lived experiment
with democracy led by the overwhelmingly popular President Zia,
who established good relationships with the West and the oil-rich
Islamic countries. His assassination in 1981 ultimately returned
the country to a military government that periodically made vague
announcements that elections would be held 'soon'. While these announcements
were rapturously greeted by the local press as proof that Bangladesh
was indeed a democracy, nothing came of them until 1991. That year
the military dictator General Ershad was forced to resign by an
unprecedented popular movement led by the Bangladesh Nationalist
Party and the Awami League.
In
1991 democracy was re-established and Begum Khaled Zia became prime
minister. The economy ticked along at a 4.5% growth rate, and ties
with the West were strengthened when the government sent troops
to assist in the Gulf War, the US-led invasion of Haiti and the
war in Bosnia. By 1994, however, many Bangladeshis had become disenchanted
with the Zia government. Despite election promises, the 1974 Special
Powers Act, allowing detention without charge for 120 days, had
never been repealed. There were claims that the government had rigged
by-elections, and military and police repression of dissenters appeared
to be on the rise. Opposition parties called for mass general strikes
and the country's bureaucrats walked out.
A general
election was held in February 1996, but a boycott by opposition
parties, 5% voter turnout, and claims of ballot box stuffing and
repression of anti-government protesters raised serious questions
about the legitimacy of the re-elected Zia government. Opposition
parties and activist groups campaigned against the election, and
on 30 March Zia stood down and a caretaker government under Muhammad
Habibur Rahman was appointed. Elections, generally seen as free
and fair, were held in June and a coalition government headed by
Sheikh Hasina Wazed of the Awami League was voted in. In mid-1988
the country was hit by devastating floods - 50 of the country's
64 districts were flooded, 755 people died and nearly a million
were made homeless.
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Copyright 2001 Lonely
Planet Publications. All Rights Reserved.
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